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Starting seeds indoors is more than a fun gardening project — it’s a strategic way to gain control over your growing season, experiment with rare or heirloom varieties, and nurture strong, healthy seedlings that are ready to thrive outdoors.
Whether you're growing tomatoes in Toowoomba, chillies in Canberra, or pansies in Perth — this guide walks you through every stage, with real seed examples from The Seed Vault, plus deep dives into lighting, temperature, and troubleshooting for success.
Indoor sowing isn’t just for cold climates — even in warmer parts of Australia, it offers huge benefits:
Extend your growing season: Start summer crops like tomatoes and capsicum in late winter or early spring to beat the garden centre rush.
Grow rare or hard-to-find plants: Heirlooms like Tomato ‘Green Zebra’, Capsicum ‘Purple Beauty’, or Lettuce ‘Freckles’ aren’t always available as seedlings.
Avoid pests and harsh weather: Early seedlings are protected from slugs, wind, heavy rain, and extreme UV.
Item | Purpose | Example / Tip |
---|---|---|
Seeds | Veg, herb or flower varieties suited to indoor sowing | Tomato 'Roma', Broccoli 'Green Sprouting', Basil 'Genovese', Pansy 'Regal Ruffles' |
Seedling trays / punnets | Shallow containers with drainage | Recycled food containers work too |
Seed raising mix | Fine, well-draining, sterile mix (coco coir + perlite) | Avoid potting mix – it’s too heavy |
Spray bottle | Gentle watering method | Prevents washing away small seeds |
Humidity dome or plastic wrap | Traps moisture, boosts germination | You can DIY this with cling film |
Heat mat (optional) | Speeds up germination, maintains warm root zone | Ideal for chillies, eggplants, capsicum |
Grow light (optional) | Prevents leggy growth in low light | Especially important in winter |
Labels | Track your varieties | Use plant tags or paddle pop sticks |
Timer (optional) | Automate lighting schedules | Set lights to run 14–16 hours/day |
Not all seeds are suited for indoor starting. Some grow better when direct sown outdoors.
Vegetables
Tomatoes – Start 6–8 weeks before last frost.
Capsicums – Loves warmth. Needs heat to germinate.
Eggplant – Slow grower. Needs heat mat and good light.
Broccoli ‘Green Sprouting’ – Cool-season veg that transplants well.
Lettuce ‘Cos’ – Quick to germinate. Easy indoors in early autumn or spring.
Herbs
Basil ‘Genovese’ – Easy to start on a warm windowsill.
Parsley – Slow germinator, so patience is key.
Chives – Compact, great for pots or windowsills.
Flowers
Pansy ‘Regal Ruffles’ – Likes cooler conditions. Surface sow.
Lobelia – Tiny seeds. Best sown on the surface and misted gently.
Dianthus – Hardy and good for transplanting.
Root crops: Carrot, beetroot, radish – dislike transplanting.
Fast growers: Corn, zucchini, cucumber – grow so quickly indoors that timing gets tricky.
Legumes: Beans, peas – don't like root disturbance.
Timing depends on your location and the seed variety. Here’s a rough guide:
Region | Last Frost | Start Indoors |
---|---|---|
VIC / TAS (cool) | Early Oct | Aug–Sept |
NSW / SA (temperate) | Sept | Aug |
QLD / NT (tropical) | Rare / never | March–July (to avoid heat) |
WA (varies) | Perth = Sept | Aug |
📌 Example: In Melbourne, start tomatoes and capsicums indoors in mid-August, and move them outside in late October when frost risk is gone.
Yes — especially if you’re sowing heat-loving plants like chillies, capsicum, or eggplant in winter or a cool climate.
Keeps soil consistently warm (21–27°C ideal for most warm-season crops)
Speeds up germination — some seeds emerge in 3–5 days vs 10–14 days without
📌 Example: Capsicum can take 2+ weeks to germinate at room temp (~18°C), but only 5–7 days on a heat mat set to 25°C.
If your seedlings are stretching, leaning, or growing pale, you absolutely need more light. Even a north-facing window isn’t always enough in winter.
LED panels – Energy-efficient, cool, long-lasting
T5 Fluorescent tubes – Budget-friendly, good for shelves
Full-spectrum LEDs – Best for seedlings and mature indoor plants
Position lights 10–15 cm above seedlings
Run lights for 14–16 hours/day
Use a timer to keep schedule consistent
📌 Example: Tomato seedlings will grow tall and weak if light is too far away or inconsistent. Under grow lights, they stay compact, green, and strong.
Fill trays with pre-moistened seed raising mix.
Sow seeds at the correct depth:
Large seeds: 10mm deep (e.g. tomato, broccoli)
Tiny seeds: surface sow (e.g. lobelia, pansy)
Mist gently with water.
Cover with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to trap warmth and moisture.
Place in a warm spot (or on a heat mat) until germination.
Remove covers as soon as seedlings appear.
Provide strong light daily (sun or grow light).
Water from the base or mist when top feels dry.
Thin out weaker seedlings once true leaves form (use scissors, don’t pull).
A critical but often skipped step!
Start 7–10 days before transplanting
Place trays outdoors in dappled shade for a few hours
Gradually increase exposure to sun and wind
Protect from strong wind, rain, or cold nights
Transplant when seedlings are sturdy and weather is stable
Mistake | What Happens | How to Fix |
---|---|---|
Not enough light | Leggy, weak seedlings | Use a grow light or brighter spot |
Overwatering | Damping off, mold, rot | Keep soil moist but not soggy |
Sowing too deep | Poor germination | Follow packet instructions |
No hardening off | Shocked seedlings | Gradually introduce to outdoors |
Potting mix instead of seed mix | Poor root development | Use fine, sterile seed raising mix |
Growing from seed is empowering, exciting, and surprisingly addictive. With the right setup — a bit of warmth, light, and patience — you can raise a tray of strong, healthy seedlings ready to burst into life in your garden.
Browse our full collection of seeds to get started — and don’t forget to check out the rest of our Inside The Vault section for even more expert advice.
Happy gardening!
The Seed Vault